Through my years working on people’s skin I've seen countless skincare ingredients come and go. But retinol? It's stood the test of time. However, there's more to this powerhouse than meets the eye. Let's dive deep into the world of retinol and uncover some truths you might not expect.
How to use Retinol 101
Jumping headfirst into retinol can lead to a lot of unnecessary skin irritation. And as ingredients go, I’m not a huge fan. It causes havoc on a lot of people’s skin. But if you insist on using it, here's how to do it right:
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Use the right product: More on that below but go gentle!
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Start slow: Use once or twice a week
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Build up gradually: Increase frequency over time
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Apply at night: Retinol can make skin photosensitive. This step is critical
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Use a pea-sized amount: More isn't better, it’s a highly active ingredients
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Wait after cleansing: Apply to completely dry skin
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Use sun protection: I have a whole episode on my thoughts on that but it’s critical if using retinol
Why I’m not the biggest fan
Here's where it gets interesting. And why I’m not the biggest fan, despite its rampant popularity. Retinol isn't just skin-deep. It affects your organs too.
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Liver: Processes and stores vitamin A (retinol)
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Eyes: Excessive amounts may impact vision
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Bones: High doses can affect bone density
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Reproductive system: Hence why retinol is a no-no while pregnant and post-partum.
Pro tips: More on Postpartum Skincare if you need it.
Retinol types — they aren’t all equal
Different retinoids excel at different tasks:
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Retinol: General anti-aging and mild acne
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Retinaldehyde: Sensitive skin and rosacea
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Tretinoin: Severe acne and significant photoaging
A retinol I like?
If I’m recommending a retinol, this Green Envee Retinal Renewal Complex is my go-to. It’s gentle. It’s less irritating. I highly recommend it.
Alternatives to retinol
Retinol is super harsh on a lot of skin types, especially sensitive skin, people with PD, etc. If that’s you, first I recommend an Active Ingredient Cleanse to reset. But you can also try these retinol alternatives:
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Rosehip oil: Rich in vitamin A
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Broccoli seed oil: A personal favorite (Check out my article on broccoli seed oil for more info)
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Niacinamide: Great for overall skin health, found in our VibrantBoost Face Mist
Pro tip: The first three are all found in our MoonLitFromWithin Face Oil which is a great, rounded retinol replacement. And it’s pregnancy-safe.
A word of caution on Retinol
While retinol plays well with many ingredients, be careful mixing it with:
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Vitamin C: Can lead to irritation
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AHAs/BHAs: May cause excessive dryness
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Benzoyl peroxide: Can deactivate retinol and waste your $$
Active ingredient overload is a big part of the reason retinol bothers a lot of people’s skin. Essentially people use too many active ingredients simultaneously in their skincare routine. This causes damage to the skin barrier but also exacerbates skin conditions like Perioral Dermatitis.
✨Jenny Jewel✨
If you're using retinol at night, you MUST cleanse in the morning too!
Here's why:
1. Removes any residual retinol
2. Preps skin for daytime protection
3. Helps maintain skin's pH balance
Obviously, I recommend GoldenHigh Oil Cleanser but any cleanser is better than not cleansing.